Bar and restaurant tip Berlin | Gendarmerie – culinary 5-course-menu 2014

My Thursday evening was fully devoted to the Berliner restaurant Gendarmerie, a temple of high-class culinary joys, art and wine culture. Of course I couldn’t miss the chance to share my experiences at this beautiful establishment with you. 5 spectacular courses as well as 5 excellent wines made my evening a lifetime experience. Who just wants to get a short appetizing summary of my evening should read the last part of my elaborate article. Who wants to learn more about what delicacies were brought to our table has to consume every single dish I verbally serve to you on a silver platter.

 The Gendarmerie literally welcomed me with open arms, the imposing entrance embracing me with its artful design. Who was graced with the opportunity to place a glance upon the interior design of this noble restaurant, knows what I mean. Above all, the overwhelming bacchanal painting which is the signature of the Gendarmerie really doesn’t let go of you. It is absolutely mind-blowing and breathtaking. As if depicting his visions by using paint wasn’t enough, the artist Yves Klein additionally added a three-dimensional component to his artwork (4mx17m). Impressively, he carved shapes and lines out of the wooden boards which at the same time represent the unconventional canvas for his painting. Only an artwork of such class was spectacular enough to be chosen to complement the extremely high ceilings, the beautiful pillars and the panorama bar blessed with a length of 17m. Pictures aren’t enough to show and convey to you what I was capturing with my eyes. You have to go see it for yourself.

A culinary concept of a 5-course meal whose interpretation indeed was very humble and honest awaited us. We’re beginning with the first course.

1. The Variations of Foie Gras was served in a truly charming arrangement of small, hearty and filigree elements which resembled sweetmeats. Differently tempered components as well as consistencies and textures of this dish’s star, the liver, were presented to us: softly melting in the shape of a parfait, fluffy like marshmallow and unexpectedly as a filling of a milk praline. In addition, a house wine by Lutter & Wegner was given to us. The taste of said wine can be well described with the terms “discreetly sweet”, “elegant” and “light”. Highlight: the combination of a small hors d’oevres which usually is a dish introducing the meal and a dessert was wonderful and thrilling. The fruity, cinnamon essence of the apple puree filled this dish with a wintery touch which harmonized wonderfully with the liver. This truly was a beautiful culinary prelude.

 

2. Foamy soup made of yellow beets and refined with caramelized scallops was served next. The filigree and fine pralines as an appetitzer were followed by something warm and excellently flavored. The slightly earthy flavor and the beautiful warmth which spread in my body produced a cozy and homelike atmosphere. By the way, I could have sworn to have tasted a soupcon of squash. However this is just an assumption. The scallops were firm enough and at the same time nicely soft on the inside. The slightly sweet sear complemented the earthy taste, supporting the sensual impression of the dish. A white wine was proffered, which turned out to be my unbeatable favorite of this evening. It was light, didn’t prickle and tingle in the end and harmonized well with the yellow beets without competing with the scallops.

 

3. The pulpo carpaccio with Merguez and mussel sauce and lime was my unchallenged favorite dish and simultaneously it was a big surprise. It was served with another house wine by Lutter and Wegner which was a tad softer than the Riesling Kabinett of the previous course. Elegantly, the taste of this wine joined the aroma of the pulpo without overlapping it. Anyway, back to the star of this dish: pulpo which I have eaten before several times. However, in combination with merguez and the mussels and a squeeze of lime, it was transformed into a flavor which has never even touched my tongue. My companion didn’t fail to notice my joy: “Are you in love or why are you grinning the whole time?” Well, what can someone who is simply speechless say?

4. Poached breast from the Poulet Noir on sautéed black salsify with calf’s head ragout: The glass of red wine, a Chateau Picard of the year 2006, found its way to the fourth course. This is just fortunate inasmuch as the quite strong and independent character of this wine required a dish which can keep up with this noble and good drop. The ragout was definitely the component which complemented the taste of the wine best. There were so many aromas which I tasted, it had for instance a gamy aroma and was probably refined by mushrooms. Thanks to the poaching, the dish received a natural mildness which too characterized the gravy. The sauce coated my mouth and tongue with light roasting flavors which resulted in a rustic flavor, combined with the black salsify. From the very beginning on, the entire meal was characterized by something very down-to-earth, which is incarnated perfectly by the second course containing the yellow beets as well as the black salsify component of the fourth dish.  

5. The champaign soup with pineapple parfait and raspberry foam represented a grande finale. Well, I have to admit that a feeling of satiety had already overwhelmed me when I finished the fourth course. But there is always enough room left in my stomach for something sweet. A dessert is always welcomed. Gelled alcohol was refined with different fruits, mint flavors and an excellent pineapple parfait. The dessert was indeed sweet, as desserts usually are. But the sweetness fortunately was not overpowering. The parfait was creamy, while the wrapping around the raspberry foam was crispy. The entire dish was a harmonic composition.

Summary of the 5-meal course at the Gendarmerie.

The Gendarmerie indeed can be called one of the best locations in Berlin when it comes down to culinary joys. And I’m not even exaggerating. This establishment is not only graced with an excellent and sophisticated cuisine which is marked by a down-to-earth attitude. The interior design and the bacchanal painting lead you to a different world. But let us move to the main aspect of this experience: the food.

The variations of the foie gras were – how should I put it- almost cute. In the shape of small pralines and sweet and handy treats, the different interpretations of this French classic were softly stroking our culinary senses. The appetizer did its job well by filling us with a thrill of anticipation towards the courses which had yet to come.

The second course was a foamy soup made of yellow beets with caramelized scallops. The yellow beets was not only a visual highlight, but definitely suitable for this season in terms of flavor. The soup was followed by a combination which I have never seen and tasted before and which is still extremely hard to describe: Pulpo carpaccio with merguez and mussel gravy. Seriously, thumbs up. “Gendarmere, you surprised me a lot.” The poached breast of the poulet noir on sautéed black salsify and calf’s head ragout was indeed quite filling and fulminant. The probably most distinctive wine of the evening accordingly harmonized well with the dish, in particular with the ragout and the black salsify, while it contrasted with the poulet. As if this evening wasn’t already joyful enough, the little cherry on the cake was served to us in the shape of Champaign soup with pineapple parfait and raspberry foam. This culinary achievement was like an explosion of flavors in my honest and humble opinion. Yes, it cannot be denied that the cuisine is more than just excellent. But let us not forget the sublime waiters who were even able to describe the courses to us. Since the Gendarmerie is still celebrating the beginning of the new year, you can still enjoy this meal for a price of only 59.90€ starting at 17:00 every day until January 31^st. The price even includes the five wines.

I consider this dinner very suitable for spending a wonderful evening with a beloved person as well as for celebrating the haute cuisine with a group of people sharing the same passion for food. Speaking of groups, if you crazy city people didn’t miss the chance to pay the Berlin Fashion Week a visit and love being around all those fashion people, then why not invite them to a delicious journey in the Gendarmerie. Here you can celebrate life with wine and other treats.

http://www.gendarmerie-berlin.de/

 

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